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Adventure

Panch Pokhari Solukhumbu Trek – The Jewel of Solukhumbu

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Nepal, is a place where you can never get tired of wandering and never get enough of meeting a new destination. In the last season of Heaven is Myth Nepal is Real, we have endeavored to capture the essence of nature by exploring various places from Mardi, Ruby Valley, Chho Rolpa, and Annapurna Base Camp to some places in eastern Nepal, totaling 8 locations. We have made efforts to encapsulate them in their natural density. Your love and support have made you part of this journey, and for that, we are immensely grateful. As a result of this love and enthusiasm, today we stand at the threshold of the fourth season of Heaven is Myth, Nepal is Real.

The beautiful scene depicted by the footprints of yesterday, the encounters with countless unknown faces, and the heights reached by experienced adventures, all narrate a tale of the present, marking the beginning of a new chapter, to be written by the footsteps of the wanderers. It will be written in the embrace of some Himalayan peak, amidst the crevices of the mountains, or in the vanished grooves of the plains.

Trekker enjoying the view of Panchpokhari, Solukhumbu
Trekker enjoying the view of Panchpokhari, Solukhumbu

We welcome you to Nepal with the first installment of Nepal 8th Wonder Presents Heaven is Myth Nepal is Real Season 4, where we are heading to Solukhumbu district, situated at an altitude of 4400 meters above sea level, up to Panchpokhari that embodies a unique blend of spiritual and natural beauty.

Indeed, it is often said that the companionship one chooses can greatly influence the journey. This time around, we are accompanied by the new Dio 125 from Honda on our expedition. The journey with Dio 125 will continue throughout the fourth season. In this first episode, we embarked on a journey to Solukhumbu with Dio 125, starting from Kathmandu.

Navigating through the bustling streets of Kathmandu, we swiftly made our way towards Kabhre district, dodging the busy sections of the capital. After crossing the dusty and rugged roads of Banepa, we finally halted at a hotel in Dhulikhel to satisfy our hunger cravings.

 

Snowy trekking route on the way to Panchpokhari
Snowy trekking route on the way to Panchpokhari

As we approached Kavre district, we traversed the Banepa-Bardibas highway. The long road ahead filled us with excitement as we eagerly anticipated reaching our destination. The busy traffic gradually thinned out, and we entered into the phase of the journey where each turn held the promise of new experiences for us travelers.

Many times, when embarking on journeys through the central, eastern, or northeastern regions of Nepal, we often begin our travels on this very highway. Each time we embark on these journeys, we encounter different experiences, highlighted by the vibrant greenery and the overall ambiance, signaling the arrival of spring.

Since entering Nepalthok, we have observed the transformation of Sindhuli district from its inception into a bustling hub of development. This particular highway doesn’t lack facilities. The major contribution to this well-paved road section between Kathmandu and Sindhuli district is the BP highway construction. After a few hours’ drive from Kathmandu, enduring the scorching midday sun and constant honking, we found solace in the shade of Khurkot for some well-deserved rest.

Leaving behind the BP highway section, we veered off towards the road leading to Okhaldhunga from Khurkot. Throughout the journey, the wind and our existence intertwined seamlessly. Sometimes we felt like we were merging with the surroundings, sometimes with the wind itself. But there was a certainty in our pace, a certainty that we both shared until we reached our destined place.

Okhaldhunga village
Okhaldhunga village

These days, amidst the hustle and bustle, where can one find moments to sit back and converse with each other? What kind of memories are people carving out in today’s world? Sometimes, we too forget whether we are travelers or merely lost in the oblivion of life. We took a moment to cherish those few moments of life. After all, that’s the real benefit of embarking on a journey.

After a brief pause by the banks of the tranquil Sun Koshi River, we resumed our journey forward. The day unfolded at its own leisurely pace, as we continued to move ahead with our own rhythm. The golden rays of the sun, filtering through the trees lining the road, added to the picturesque ambiance of the surroundings.

As the sun began to set behind the distant hills, one could see people slowly making their way back home, weary from the weight of their responsibilities. It was a time when everyone was returning to their own sanctuary, burdened by the weight of their duties. It was a moment of shared hustle and bustle, laughter, and camaraderie—a time when the sun dipped below the horizon, marking the end of another day.

During our journey, we witness the diverse colors of age. Sometimes, it’s the innocence of childhood, and sometimes, it’s the wisdom of experience. Each color has its own uniqueness, and with time, these colors evolve and change. I believe time is the traveler, and its journey is age. And when time reaches its mature phase, perhaps the color of maturity is not just the setting sun but also the color of the sky engulfed in twilight.

In the east lies Khotang, in the west is Ramechhap, and in the north, nestled in the heart of Solukhumbu, is Okhaldhunga. It is said that during the Mahabharata era, Bhima ground a large pestle in this place, hence the name Okhaldhunga. Spread across an area of 1074.5 square kilometers, this area accommodates a diverse population. Okhaldhunga Bazaar, being the central hub, showcases significant connectivity to agriculture, trade, and service sectors, reflecting the growing integration of people in the region.

As the morning sun rose, Okhaldhunga was bustling with activity, and we decided to have breakfast before bidding farewell to Okhaldhunga Bazaar. Continuing our journey along the road that connects Okhaldhunga to the lower Solukhumbu region, namely Salleri and Phaplu, we embarked on our travels.

We could see small settlements and fields along the roadside. The road was not heavily trafficked; instead, it meandered peacefully. Progressing along the windy section of the road, we ascended gradually from Okhaldhunga Bazaar. The last time, we had traveled on this road towards Dudhkunda, and this time too, the road led us in the same direction.

Rhododendron blooming on the way to Chholem Kharka
Rhododendron blooming on the way to Chholem Kharka

The vibrant red rhododendron flowers amidst lush greenery enhance its beauty manifold. With the arrival of spring, Laligurans, considered the national flower of Nepal, blossoms abundantly across hillsides. The sight of these flowers blooming in their natural habitat is truly mesmerizing.

While the allure of Laligurans was indeed captivating, it was the inherent authenticity of this place that brought us closer to the essence of civilization. We were able to witness the rhythm and lifestyle rooted in tradition, starting from the village to the rugged trails. In the rush of modernity, encountering such preserved cultures has become increasingly rare and precious.

Even when we reached Thade Bazaar, we were still journeying within the boundaries of Okhaldhunga district. The surroundings continued to mesmerize us with their enchanting aura. It felt like we were fastened to the mountainous way of life, embedded within our own rhythm and routine, as we traversed along the smooth road section.

This road indeed leads to Pikipek as well. During the blooming season of Laligurans, there seems to be no limit to the beauty. However, as we proceed, the path diverges at Dhap Bazaar. We decided to leave Dhap Bazaar behind and continue our journey towards the direction of Bung.

As we ventured off from the smooth road section, the off-road journey began. So far, the Dio 125 had been providing us excellent support. With its ground clearance of 171 millimeters, we trusted that it would continue to accompany us even on rough terrain.

This new Dio 125 from Honda boasts modern technology, sleek design, and a beautiful combination of convenience. Whether it’s rugged terrain or smooth road sections, the Dio 125 provided us with excellent support throughout our journey.

Himalayas as seen from Panch Pokhara
Himalayas as seen from Panch Pokhara

Travelling straight from JorBoudha, one will reach Phaplu. Situated in Phaplu, the airstrip connects the lower part of Solukhumbu with various other places via air routes. However, we took a right turn from Jor Baudha towards Nele Bazar.

Solukhumbu district, spread over an area of 3,312 square kilometers, is primarily divided into three main regions. One part is the Khumbu Himalayan region, which is close to Tibet. Another is the Khumbu region, which is a familiar place to everyone. Famous locations like Namche Bazaar are found in this area. We were travelling to the Solu region of Solukhumbu district, that are not as well-known as the Khumbu region.

If we delve into Nepal’s history, we find that the Solu region was once home to a Kirati kingdom. Hence, this area has a significant presence of Kirati community members. Located beneath the other Himalayan regions in Solukhumbu district, this area was also believed to possess its own uniqueness and allure.

From Nele Bazaar, we were heading towards Sotang. The condition of the road was deteriorating rapidly. Now, seeing the state of the road from here, we realized how much worse it had become. So, we had no idea how long it would take us to reach Sotang. Whether we would reach on time or not was also uncertain.

Day was about to take a leave. The atmosphere had a certain coolness, and we knew we had to reach Sotang by evening no matter what. Despite the risks posed by the road ahead, there were no other alternatives but to reach the designated destination in front of the travelers. There’s fatigue to overcome, scenery to lose oneself in, and the need to keep moving forward. Perhaps, that’s the duty and responsibility of a traveler.

The deteriorating condition of the road was causing some sluggishness in our journey. On one side, the road was rough with rocks, making it difficult for us to ride our scooter, while on the other side, the evening was approaching rapidly.

Bung Municipality lies within Solukhumbu District. It encompasses an area of 648.05 square kilometers and includes the villages of Bung, Chheskam, and Gudel. With approximately 986 households, Bung has a significant population of Kulung Rai community members, contributing to its diverse demographic. Consequently, traces of Kirati religion and tradition can be observed in the area.

Bung village in Solukhumbu district
Bung village in Solukhumbu district

Despite the challenging road conditions, we were fortunate to have access to NTC 4G facilities in Bung. Similarly, if roads were to be constructed here, both tourists and locals would find it much easier to travel. While tourism illuminates the prospects of a brighter future, roads connect the past with the present. Despite the lack of amenities, the enthusiasm among the local children was unparalleled.

The road from Bung to Khiraule is steep. Steep with unmanaged road. Nonetheless, we were compelled to halt there and capture the daily lives of the children. The nostalgia of childhood, lost in the oblivion of time, took us to places where our memories were made.

As we age, we lose track of life’s celebrations. We are compelled to suppress that innocence, freedom, and curiosity. But sometimes, just remembering them brings joy back into our lives.

Even amidst the rugged roads, reaching there and mingling with the locals made our journey a delightful experience, alleviating our fatigue. Despite the challenging terrain, we didn’t hesitate to immerse ourselves in that environment. In times of need, helping each other, sharing laughter, and enjoying moments of happiness made our journey special.

Before dusk, as we reached Khiraule, we found relief and also got a chance to get lost in its surroundings for a while. Along with us, we had Current Cup Noodles. Many Nepalis find comfort in these noodles, whether it’s in the office or during travels, they never leave our side.

In the bustling parts of the city, amidst the hustle and bustle, there lies a serene corner where tranquility reigns. Under the open sky, adorned by scattered clouds, it displays various forms of joy. It was like finding a moment of lost happiness, akin to discovering a fleeting glimpse of joy.

 

The medium and only source of transport in the Himalayan region of Nepal
The medium and only source of transport in the Himalayan region of Nepal

In Khiroule, a village known for its Sherpa community, there are approximately 55 households. The name “Khiroule” originates from the Sherpa language, referring to the rounded shape of the surrounding trees.

We embarked on our journey, leaving behind the Honda Dio, in Khiroule. From the very first day, traveling only on scooters, we found great joy in traversing this way. The lush red rhododendron blossoms, the open weather, and the gentle breeze accompanying us made our journey immensely enjoyable.

Laligurans, known as the national flower of Nepal, adorned the mountains like a beautiful bride. During the months of Chaitra and Baisakh, Laligurans could be seen covering many hills in Nepal, creating a captivating view. The blossoms of Laligurans bloom in a charming manner, decorating the hillsides. According to statistics, there are more than 30 species of Laligurans found in Nepal, each blooming in its unique way. We were mesmerized by the intoxicating allure of Laligurans. In the green surroundings, whether it’s red, pink, or white Laligurans, whose heart wouldn’t be captivated?

When travelers litter and throw garbage, not only does the environment get polluted, but someone else’s experience can also be spoiled due to the same reason. Therefore, there’s a saying that on a footpath, leave only the footprint of your sole and take back sweet memories with you.

After resting for a while and having some food, our journey to ascend the steep path begins again. Even the trail to Lukla is filled with challenging climbs. We were headed towards Cholemakharka, in the opposite direction of the path leading to Lukla.

The journey always has its ups and downs. If there are downs, it makes reaching destinations even sweeter. If there’s determination, then courage to climb back up after setbacks is always found. Those downs demand time, which is more precious than anything. And we, without any hesitation, give it as much time as possible.

Kal Pokhri or Phokte Tal in Solu is one of the paths of the Panch Pokhari trek. Panch Pokhari is also a religious site. Some pilgrims go there to ask for something, but according to locals, if you return after seeing Panch Pokhari, you don’t look at this lake. If someone looks here, they have the belief that their wishes won’t be fulfilled. That’s why pilgrims return after seeing Panch Pokhari without looking at this lake.

The Forest Camp, also known as Cholem kharka, wasn’t too far now. As we approached Cholem kharka, the weather gradually became colder. After the scorching sun, the contrasting views of the hills started to appear through the thick haze, inviting us deeper into the wilderness. Amidst the struggle on the trail, we witnessed the blooming lives.

Chholem Kharka on the way to Panchpokhari Solukhumbu
Chholem Kharka on the way to Panchpokhari Solukhumbu

When we woke up in the morning, it seemed as if the sky had just opened up, but clouds had come to cover it. Except for hotels made for tourists, there isn’t much else in Cholemakharka. With the increasing flow of tourists in Cholemakharka, this place is now being called Forest Camp.

The accommodation and trekking facilities in Cholem Kharka weren’t that sophisticated. However, we found good facilities for accommodation and food, and even 4G network coverage from NTC at that altitude. With such amenities, we didn’t feel too far away, and we didn’t miss the opportunity to connect with our family and friends back home, despite being so remote.

Seeing the steep path ahead, we realized that descending might be more challenging today, with lots of slips and the path just as treacherous. But with determined effort, we managed to ascend steep inclines and navigate through the same difficult path. In such rugged terrain and environment, every step might lead to a stumble, but the fault lies not in the path. After all, the path remains the same, but the experience changes with the destination. The same path that feels difficult today might seem easier tomorrow.

Possibly, the challenging paths are the ones that lead to beautiful destinations. We also felt the same. The more difficult it is, the more special it becomes. Those paths, carved through the rugged terrain, speak of their independence, which brings its own joy. Even as time passes and changes, those moments of happiness remain, echoing through the mountains forever.

We also spotted the elusive snow leopard in the Himalayan region. This is a rare animal, but incredibly beautiful to behold. There, it had made its solitary dwelling, crafting its own open home in that secluded spot.

Way to Panchpokhari near Hurhure Pass
Way to Panchpokhari near Hurhure Pass

As we advanced towards the Hurhure Pass, we could see the snow around us. The temperature was decreasing, and it seemed like the monsoon rain was turning into snow. The rocks covered with snow were becoming slippery. At such times, it was the sturdy staff that provided us with support and confidence to keep moving forward.

There, at every resting spot, benches had been made for weary travelers. We rested there for a while, recollecting the path we had chosen. It felt like we had traveled so far. Panting heavily, we looked up from the earth to the sky. In that moment, our journey became enchanting. With the companionship of snow, we found joy in our exhaustion.

During the journey of life, we often veer off our regular course and find ourselves on different paths. It’s in those moments that a whole new life seems to begin. New destinations, new heights, the sight of unseen scenery before, exhaustion, and busyness—these emotions overwhelm every traveler’s mind. Therefore, nothing else matters to them except living in that moment. That’s why, when we travel, we aim to live in the present moment.

We had come so far, nearing our destination, but due to the weather, we couldn’t fully appreciate the surrounding scenery. A thick veil of mist had descended. Like Pasang Dai said, in such situations, all we could do was hold onto hope that tomorrow would not be the same.

Our first day of the journey had been a success in its own way. We had nestled in the enchanting ambiance of Solu, where lay the mystical Panch Pokhari, a sight we had longed to behold. Though we witnessed the direct sight of the five lakes, our journey felt incomplete without immersing ourselves fully in the essence of Panch Pokhari. In such a state, we couldn’t do much, but reaching there brought us immense joy. Throughout the day, our tired feet searched for a place to rest, shoulders burdened with backpacks, and necks damp with sweat. Therefore, amidst the surroundings of Panch Pokhari, we ventured towards the horizon without letting any obstacles deter us. Internally, we hoped for the weather to clear up tomorrow and to fully experience Panch Pokhari without any hindrance.

To welcome the weary travelers who come to explore Panch Pokhari, there are quite a few limited hotels in Khola Kharka. After traveling such a distance, many negotiations are made with various things once the facilities are reached. There, one could find small places to stay, delicious food to eat, and warm hospitality. What else could one ask for?

Khola Kharka lies at around 4250m above sea level
Khola Kharka lies at around 4250m above sea level

Despite our arrival, we hadn’t quite reached the beautiful scenery of Khola Kharka. Hence, we couldn’t find a place to settle down. Enthralled by the enchanting surroundings, we remained spellbound. As we looked around, it seemed as though someone had scattered white petals of rain-soaked clouds across the landscape, and amidst them lay a beautiful village.

Despite arriving after such a long and challenging journey, being able to connect with technology was a big deal in itself. For that, we are grateful to Anthesis. From Khiraule in the morning to the steep climbs and the obstructed views of Panch Pokhari, when we finally reached Khola Kharka, it felt like stepping into a different world, filled with bewilderment.

In the golden presence of morning sunlight, the sky seemed to open up. This unexplored region of Solukhumbu district reassured us that Nepal isn’t just about visiting, but also about exploring places where many haven’t ventured. On that day, we were eager to behold Panch Pokhari in all its pristine beauty.

Even for Mera peak mountaineering adventures, this same trail seems to be the route to take. Situated at an altitude of 6,654 meters above sea level, Mera peak is familiar for its breathtaking views of the majestic Himalayas in Solukhumbu. We were heading towards Panch Pokhari again from Khola Kharka.

Rhododendrons on the way to Panch Pokhari.

Yesterday, the snow had blanketed the mountains, and when the rays of the sun touched them, it felt like touching pearls. From here, one can see the Makalu, Kusum Kanguru, Kanchenjunga, and my peak Himal. The journey that seemed merely an excursion on the first day now feels meaningful. Escaping from the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu and arriving in this solitude brings a sense of relief. If there were any other weather, it might have looked different, but the presence of snow made the scenery even more beautiful.

Located at an altitude of 4400 meters above sea level, the Panch Pokhari in the Solu region is among the lesser-explored areas. Nestled amidst the Himalayas, these lakes, which stand proudly in the lap of nature, are within the Makalu Barun National Park. Due to the route leading to Mera Peak, Panch Pokhari has gained popularity among foreign tourists, yet it has not received much attention from domestic tourists despite its allure.

Five different lakes are known by different names. The largest lake is called “Buwa Pokhari” (Father Lake). Following that, other lakes are named “Aama Pokhari” (Mother Lake), “Chhora Pokhari” (Son Lake), “Buhari Pokhari” (Daughter-in-law Lake), and the last one is called “Gothalni Pokhari” (Courtyard Lake). These lakes represent the significance and closeness of family members, just like the close proximity they share with each other.
Behind this naming, there’s also an interesting legend. Initially, this place was believed to be a grazing ground for yaks. One day, a family came here to herd their cattle. After the entire family went away, they believed a lake had formed there. And locals believe that if there’s any divine power in the lake, it has become the center of faith.

Panchpokhari, situated within the Mahakulung Rural Municipality, is considered a sacred land for Kirati, Hindu, and Buddhist devotees alike. It is believed that whatever one desires in this sacred land will come true if expressed with sincerity. The center of faith in this place makes special occasions like Nag Panchami and Janai Purnima grandly celebrated by devotees. Upon visiting here, it becomes evident that nature itself is the origin of all religions and practices, not just Kirati, Hindu, or Buddhist.

The serene beauty of the tranquil lake left us spellbound. Even though we couldn’t immerse ourselves in the lake waters, our faith found its expression right there. We stood in awe of the vast, unparalleled beauty of nature. By offering our humble gratitude in this manner, we begin what could be a more appropriate start than this?

Aerial view of Panchpokhari, Solukhumbu
Aerial view of Panchpokhari, Solukhumbu

Every hardship seemed worthwhile once we reached there. After arriving at Panchpokhari, we realized that Nepal still has such places that are yet to be discovered, like hidden treasures amidst the vast Himalayan landscape, in the dense forests of some mountains, or in the thickets of the Terai region.

Within a few days, we left behind the hustle and bustle of the city to arrive at a place where the scenery alone captivated our hearts like nothing else could. There, while staying, making our own Nepali-style instant noodles, and being mesmerized by the beautiful view of Panchpokhari, we complemented each other perfectly.

We’ve collected many memories on our journey to Panchpokhari. We’ve shared colors of all ages, sweet smiles, and memories of little ones who bloom like Laligurans flowers. The joy of losing ourselves freely in the footsteps after Khiraule’s settlement and the happiness of overcoming hardships together have become cherished moments. We’ve formed new bonds at every turn, laughed away the difficulties of the journey, and shared smiles. Altogether, in these five days, we’ve woven a tapestry of unforgettable memories.

We are grateful to our sponsors for providing us with such an opportunity. We are thankful to Jangbu and the hotel managers for their warm welcome and hospitality. We appreciate their efforts to make our stay comfortable. Special thanks to Pasang Dai and Bhauju, who treated us like family from Khiraule to the end. Similarly, we are grateful to Chakra Bahadur Dai. Lastly, we express our gratitude to our beloved audience, who constantly support us with love and encouragement. We will soon embark on a journey to explore new places, new environments, and new experiences. Until then, take care!

Article: Puspa Devkota

Photos: Abhishek Dhakal & Sadish Joshi

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